Parisian Men’s Fashion Shows: Footwear, Americana, and Balletcore Take Center Stage

Paris witnessed a captivating showcase of men’s fashion during the Fall-Winter 2024 shows, featuring noteworthy returns, departures, and debuts. Balmain Homme marked its comeback after a four-year hiatus, Givenchy presented its first collection post-Matthew Williams, and fashion company 032c made its runway debut.

Footwear emerged as a focal point, offering alternatives to sneakers, a celebration of Americana’s new face, and a stylish challenge to toxic masculinity.

Je T’imbs: The Iconic Timberland Upgrade

Timberland’s iconic six-inch yellow boots, ingrained in American heritage, experienced a high-fashion revival in Paris during their 50th-anniversary year. The distinctive yellow boot, once associated with construction workers and hip-hop stars, took center stage at Louis Vuitton and Wales Bonner. Louis Vuitton’s creative director, Pharrell Williams, showcased various iterations, including a Maison-logo embossed version. Wales Bonner added a touch of glamour with silver stud detailing. Timberland’s CMO, Maisie Willoughby, deemed it an exciting moment for the brand.

Americana Redux: Nod to Mid-Century Ivy League Style

Wales Bonner reinterpreted mid-century Ivy League styles, featuring varsity jackets, striped crew necks, and sweatshirts paying homage to historically Black Howard University. Rhude’s Rhuigi Villaseñor added his spin with letterman jackets and tweed blazers worn over university sweatshirts, incorporating oversized cargo vests and quilted trousers for a cool-kid vibe.

A Moment for Mullets: Grungy Romance at Amiri

Amiri, under Los Angeles-based designer Mike Amiri, combined 1950s suiting silhouettes with a nonchalant 90s-inspired approach, resulting in grungy romanticism. Tuxedo jackets exuded a slouchy swagger, paired with wide-collared shirts unbuttoned to the naval. Grandpa cardigans received a modern touch with leather trim, layered over patterned shirts and tasseled scarves.

Turquoise Cowboys at Louis Vuitton: A Western Reimagining

Pharrell Williams reimagined the stereotypical American Western wardrobe through a Louis Vuitton lens. The collection featured hand-beaded pearl and sequin motifs on denim and chaps, along with tailored dungarees, bolero jackets, and turquoise detailing. Williams collaborated with artists from the Dakota and Lakota nations to present a diverse portrayal of original cowboys.

Shoes as Armor: Formal Footwear Takes the Stage

Several collections witnessed a departure from sneakers, opting for more formal footwear. Balmain Homme showcased shiny black block-heeled boots with crystal detailing. Dries Van Noten opted for minimalist leather flats, while Kim Jones for Dior Homme introduced ballet-inspired flats paired with knee-high socks. Rick Owens collaborated on inflatable knee-high boots, symbolizing protection against the chaos of the world.

Balletcore at Dior: Homage to Rudolf Nureyev

Kim Jones debuted Dior Homme’s first couture collection, drawing inspiration from Russian ballet star Rudolf Nureyev. Beanie hats, ribbed knits, oversized wrap coats, and tailored suits showcased the collection’s balletcore theme. Dior’s couture looks paid homage to Nureyev’s personal belongings, with dramatic kimonos, hand-embroidered motifs, and sequined tank tops exclusively available to VIP clients.

Guys with Grace: Valentino’s New Elegance

Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli aimed to infuse “a new grace and gentleness” into men’s fashion. Traditional suits embraced looser silhouettes and rounded shoulders, with a predominantly black, grey, and cream palette accented by sky blue details. Givenchy, post-Matthew M. Williams, redefined its aesthetic by drawing inspiration from founder Hubert de Givenchy’s wardrobe, resulting in a collection emphasizing coolness over logos.