Chanel Fall 2024 is immersed in the romantic sunset skies of the coastal town of Deauville, France, blending the cinematic essence of the location and infusing the refined elegance of the “masculine-feminine” aesthetic pioneered by the founder, Gabrielle Chanel. It serves as a love letter, a tribute by Virginie Viard to Deauville – the place where the destiny of Gabrielle Chanel was forever altered.
The event begins with a black-and-white short film, recreating iconic scenes from the classic French film “Un homme et une femme” (A Man and a Woman), featuring brand ambassadors Brad Pitt and Penélope Cruz, directed by Inez and Vinoodh. As the film concludes, lights illuminate the runway, evoking the romantic pathways of Deauville, where the film was shot in 1966. From teaser images on the brand’s official Instagram to the actual show, Virginie Viard has demonstrated her special affection for Deauville, or more accurately, the creative inspiration for this Fall-Winter collection.
But where is Deauville, and what is its special connection to the French fashion house? Rewinding the fashion clock to 1912 marks a pivotal moment in Gabrielle Chanel’s career, when her fate was forever altered, signaling the beginning of a fashion revolution liberating women from the constraints of stifling corsets. Gabrielle Chanel commenced her business as a seamstress in a shop in Deauville, a fashionable seaside resort in France. Perhaps the romance and charm seemingly only found in movies permeated the atmosphere of Deauville, assisting this great woman of fashion in pioneering an avant-garde notion of sophistication, refinement, and classicism in fashion. Deauville also hosted the renowned American film festival, with Chanel being a familiar partner of the event. Mentioning the film industry, we already know too well Virginie Viard’s profound love affair with cinema. All these reasons explain why the creative director Viard chose Deauville to be a “crossroads” for the roots of Chanel and cinema.
Organized in the glamorous setting of the Grand Palais Éphémère in Paris, Chanel Fall 2024 invites viewers on a journey to the beautiful sun-drenched sands of Deauville to hear the stories of the place or revisit the glorious history that shaped the legend of Gabrielle Chanel. Under the imaginatively directed guidance of Virginie Viard, Chanel Fall 2024 brings a perfect harmony between past echoes and present sentiments.
From the very first looks, viewers immediately “sense” the fragrance of freedom and rebellion of the 1970s, reminiscent of the wild stage presence of David Bowie. It was the era of 1972, the heyday of Glam Rock, with layers of sparkling fabrics, maxi suits, or suede boots reminiscent of David’s wardrobe. Meanwhile, the flowing maxi dresses evoke Karl Lagerfeld’s distinctive design language of the 1970s.
Continuing on the runway are the elements that Coco Chanel revolutionized the fashion world with in the 1920s. The gender-fluid creativity inherent in Chanel’s legacy is revived, combining feminine elements drawn directly from Gabrielle Chanel’s personal wardrobe with masculine inspirations from the wardrobes of affluent gentlemen enjoying winter vacations by the seaside.
The talented creative director gracefully presents a series of oversized shoulder coats paired with box-pleated skirts, culottes, and cropped pants, as well as meticulously layered suits crafted from premium tweed fabric. The combination of thick knit sailor sweaters and delicate silk shirts with modest collars, or off-shoulder tops and lace-trimmed shirts, all whisper about the allure of the seaside city of Deauville and the gentle breezes always present there. As stated in the press release by the show, Chanel Fall 2024 is a “crossroad” of the 70s and the 20s.
Of course, the iconic tweed fabrics of the French fashion house still shine proudly on the runway. However, this time they are woven with the gentle, freeing breath of the sea. Chanel’s signature material suddenly becomes softer when paired with soft knit ensembles cinched at the waist with leather belts, or tweed fabric dresses with matching culottes structured. There are even many thick white knit sweaters that resemble loungewear, but in a more luxurious manner, pajama-style tops with belts, as well as flowing chiffon dresses. Chanel invites us to rediscover the romance and vibrant scenery that has long been an inspiration for the French fashion house.
The deep-rooted connection of Chanel with the arts, especially cinema, is woven into the collection in a grand and soulful manner. Through subtle hints expressed through silhouettes, details, or color combinations, viewers can clearly see Virginie’s reverence for the brand’s deep-seated relationship with the film industry, as well as its influence on fashion. The use of printed motifs evokes images of cinema not only shows respect for this relationship but also infuses the collection with a narrative depth, blending fashion with storytelling art. The image of Virginie as the muse in this collection, more precisely as the close friend of Gabrielle Chanel, actress Anouk Aimée, is evident in pastel-colored tweed suits or specially honored through the choice of footwear, such as knee-high or thigh-high sheepskin boots reflecting her iconic style in “A Man and a Woman.”
Bearing the hallmark of early 20th-century fashion, Chanel Fall 2024 presents a grand parade of oversized brim hats. The hats, flipped up at the front, secured by a brooch, not only pay homage to the prevailing styles of Deauville’s early heyday but also affirm a bold statement on the contemporary runway. If you are familiar with Coco Chanel, the appearance of these hats along with the baker boy caps made of tweed fabric is evidence of the founder’s starting point. Before leading one of the world’s most prestigious fashion houses, Gabrielle Chanel was once a milliner. Therefore, these large hats in Chanel Fall 2024 serve as a reminder of the brand’s eternal heritage, emphasizing timeless elegance and the daring spirit that women always possess.
As Chanel Fall 2024 concludes, viewers can truly appreciate the dreamy beauty of Deauville. With 73 completed looks showcased on the runway, the entire audience beholds a breathtaking panorama of Deauville’s sunset. Virginie Viard skillfully dyes the sunset sky with various layers of colors throughout the entire collection. A range of vibrant hues mixed with subtle dashes of pastel, as well as the sophistication of brown and gold, all paint a picture of a landscape as beautiful as a painting of the town. Among the numerous characteristic colors of the collection, the stunning shades of pink and gray bring a fresh perspective to the autumn-winter palette. The color symphony of Chanel Fall 2024 not only reflects the rich natural beauty of Deauville or the luxurious lifestyle there but also offers a rich, flexible choice for Chanel women.
Chanel Fall 2024 is a journey through time. By drawing inspiration from Deauville, Virginie Viard not only pays homage to Gabrielle Chanel’s legacy but also charts a course for the brand’s future – a future where history and modernity converge in a symphony of style, luxurious inspiration, and boldness.
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